The Albanian Riviera vs. The Wild Inland: The Battle for a Traveler's Heart

Most tourists make the exact same mistake: they cross the border, park themselves at a resort in Durrës or Saranda, and don’t move for a week. By doing this, they miss the absolute best parts. Albania is actually two completely different worlds combined into one country. The coast gives you the sea, but the inland gives you the soul.

The Coast: Turquoise Paradise, But Choose Your Spot Wisely

If you want a beautiful sea, you have to go south of the city of Vlorë. The northern coast (Durrës, Shëngjin) has shallow waters, darker sand, and caters mostly to massive crowds—nothing that will blow your mind.

The real Albanian Riviera starts right after the Llogara Pass (a spectacular driving spot at 1,000 meters above sea level, where it’s worth stopping for mountain tea with honey). From there, it’s all downhill, and the Ionian Sea opens up right in front of you.

Saranda: A concrete jungle full of apartment buildings and hotels. Good for nightlife and shopping, but the beaches directly in town aren’t great.
Ksamil: The southern tip. Flawless Caribbean colors, but extremely overcrowded during summer holidays.
The Hidden Gem – Gjipe Canyon and Beach: This is a spot for adventurers. The beach is squeezed between massive canyon walls. You can’t get there by car—you have to leave it at the parking lot by St. Theodor’s Monastery and hike about 30 minutes down a red dirt path. The reward is a pristine sea without mass tourism, a couple of eco-bars, and a tent campsite.

Inland: Where Time Has Stopped

When you get tired of the salty air and the noise of jet skis, point your car inland. Just 30 kilometers away from the coast, you’ll find yourself in a completely different era.

1. The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)

A stunning natural phenomenon near Saranda. It is an underwater spring where water pumps up from a depth of more than 50 meters. The water has such an intense blue color that it literally looks like an eye.

Practical Advice: The water is 10 °C year-round. Swimming is officially forbidden, but locals and tourists jump from the viewing platform straight into the center of the spring anyway. Arrive before 9:00 AM, otherwise, you’ll be overrun by tour buses. From the parking lot to the spring, it’s about a 1.5 km walk on an asphalt road; it’s worth renting one of the electric scooters available at the entrance.

2. Gjirokastër: The Stone City Under UNESCO Protection

The birthplace of the infamous dictator Enver Hoxha. The entire old center is built from stone—stone streets, stone roofs, and steep alleys that will test your leg muscles and your car’s clutch. The highlight is the massive castle overlooking the valley, where you can even see a shot-down US military spy plane from the Cold War era.

3. Berat: The City of a Thousand Windows

If you only see one historic city in Albania, make it Berat. The Osum River splits the town into two historic quarters—the Muslim Mangalem and the Christian Gorica. White Ottoman houses are stacked up the steep hillside, their large windows watching over everything below. Sitting in a restaurant at night with the lights glowing, enjoying a traditional tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt), is an unforgettable experience.

The Perfect Itinerary: Divide your trip. Spend 4 days on the beaches around Himarë/Ksamil, 1 day exploring the Blue Eye and Gjirokastër, and stop for one night in Berat on your way there or back. Only then can you say you’ve truly experienced Albania.

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